Where to stay and what to do in the Marrakech medina.

We started traveling to Morocco way back in 1996 and have watched Marrakech grow up into a wildly vibrant tourist haven. Over the decades of yearly trips we have learned so much about where to stay, eat, and play in this glorious, ancient city. Read on for tips on planning your own magical Morocco trip to Marrakech.

One of the most important parts of enjoying Marrakech is staying in the medina in a riad.

The heart and soul of Marrakech, the medina, dates back to the eleventh century. Its rammed earth walls encircle labyrinth lanes of residential homes, bustling businesses, sprawling palaces, and dramatic mosques and madrasas, and is largely closed to car traffic. Anchored by the Jemma el Fna - the open square that by day is snake charmers, musicians, and jus d'orange sellers, and by night is rows of food stalls serving up regional delicacies - the medina stretches in all directions in a web of intricate streets and alleyways.

As one walks past the maze of shops close to the Jemma el Fna and the Koutoubia (the beautiful, landmark mosque built in 1147) and wanders further into the medina, the teeming streets filled with visitors from around the world get thinner and twistier, and much quieter. Just beyond the choas of bussed-in day tourists are actual residential roads where more than 100,000 locals still live, and an increasing amount of visitors choose to reside on their trips.

These neighborhoods include tiny bodegas selling snacks, barbers tucked into phone booth sized nooks, and countless, simple cedar wood doors that are truly unremarkable in any way - what they hide is anyone's guess. It could be a hovel of crumbled old adobe bricks, or it could be the most opulent palace with myriad rooms and extravagent details.

Riads are traditional homes built around a central garden. Often with a burbling fountain beneath an open courtyard, these homes have rooms laid out around the garden on two floors with a rooftop where it's lovley at early morning or sundown.  

There are literally thousands of riads that are rentable and operate like bed and breakfasts throughout the medina. For us, this is the only way to live when in Marrakech!

We have stayed at countless riads over the years, and while all have something magical about them, we of course have our favorites. Recently we have enjoyed staying at Riad Jardin Secret which is conveniently located near taxi-accessible streets so one has to walk mere steps to get home when out late. The photos above and below are all from our last two stays at this gorgeous oasis. Owned by a charming French couple with a superb design acumen, the riad also hosts visiting artists. Last time we stayed, it was incredible to have a glass of wine on the roof in the evening as the sky turned watercolor-intense and see how the resident artist's paintings had evolved while we were out at work during the day.  

On a grander scale there are larger properties that combine multiple riads into more traditional feeling hotels. El Fenn is a famous example of this, and for good reason. Started by Richard Branson's sister Vanessa over twenty years ago, it has become a sensation for it's stunning interiors and chic rooftop bar. Each room is unique, and drenched in delicious color. See the photos below for truly inspiring design from this iconic collection of riads.  

Of course there are other, even more over-the-top versions of the sprawling riad hotel - Royal Mansour, owned by the King himself, and the original luxury destination for 100 years now - La Mamounia. Both are extravagant and unforgettable - but we find, for us, they are best just for a dinner or drinks outing. A bit too posh for us!

The images above and below here are of a couple of other memorable, simpler riads we have enjoyed. At left above and below are images of the stunning Dar el Qadi - which is the very first riad we stayed in back in 1996. I made a blog post about it in 2019 last time we stayed there - linked here for more photos. The pretty all white image above is from the minimal but super chic Riad Snan 13 which is also featured in yet another blog post I wrote about awhile back about Morocco - linked here.

Of equal importance to where one stays in Marrakech, is planning where to shop!

The famous souks are confusing to first time visitors, but with a little know how and a sense of adventure it's fantastically fun. Most people start out in the Jemma el Fna and make their way down the Semmarine - which is the main tourist thoroughfare leading to the maze of the souks. Here are some tips for your first foray into the souks from our decades of shopping the Marrakech medina.

• The Jemma el Fna is a large open square which is relatively empty in the daytime, until the nightly assembly of the food stalls I mentioned before. If you go to your left you will see rows of orange juice stands and pretty little plant nurseries selling cactus and other desert beauties. On this side of the square you will see the famous old Cafe Argana and the new kid on the block, the medina version of the restaurant L'Address as landmarks. If you enter the souks here you will be lead right into the smaller Bab Ftouh square. This is a perfect spot to start exploring.
• There are fondouks on either side of the square that have tons of fabulous small shops.  Fondouks were originally places for travellers to rest their camels or horses and to rent a room to stay while trading goods brought from other parts of Africa and beyond. Now they are courtyards with shops on the bottom level -where the camels once were! - and additional shops lining the balconies above. The fondouk to the right, (southeast) of the square has dozens of tiny shops selling all sorts of African treasures. Depending on what traders have brought in you may find Berber pots, masks from Burkina Faso, Zimbabwe Tonga baskets, and animal stools from Mali. Always you will find wonderful tea tray sellers with hammered hammam basins and teapots and many tiny shops with talismanic amulets, and chunky costume jewelry.
• Across the Bab Ftouh square you will see a second fondouk right next to the Bab Ftouh Pharmacy. This nook has shops filled with bone inlay mirrors, hand painted Fes pottery, and vintage finds from all over Morocco. Be sure to go upstairs in both fondouks to see it all!
• While one could spend hours in Bab Ftouh alone - the rest of the souks await! Exit the square to the east and you will be right on the Semmarine. Turn to the left and as you walk observe the endless stalls of shops selling rugs, djebellas, inlaid boxes, tea sets and more. Your first major lane to your right will be the entrance to another square - the Rahba Kdima - the spice square. Here you will find many booths selling spices and the famous Beldi black soap used in hammams. There are a few good shops selling Tuareg and Berber jewelry if you take the time to look here. The famous Cafe des Epices is on the square - great place to stop for a coffee!
• Exit the Rabha Kedima the same way you came in and then journey along the Semmarine to your right. You will quickly come to a fork in the road. To your right you will find yourself in the leather goods sellers with hundreds of small shops selling handbags and belts, jackets and duffles. Don't miss the cute stalls selling orangewood spoons and kitchen implements too!
• If you choose to go to the left at the fork you will come to the rows of little shoe sellers mixed in with lots of fun little jewelry and ceramics stores on this side.  
• For more souk exploration past this first visit down the Semmarine, I can't recommend enough finding the book Shopping in Marrakech.  It is out of print now but available online from major booksellers lightly used. While some of the shops discussed in the book are no longer around - it is organized into 7 walks that are timeless and classic around the medina and Gueliz, (the colonial part of the city) and is a wonderful way to go beyond the "main drag" discussed here. Some of my personal favorite shops are on and around Dar el Bacha and the Rue Mouassine - which is complex to explain in a blog post - but in the book with maps it's not daunting at all!  

Another fantastic shopping experience in Marrakech is the flea market area of the medina - Bab el Khemis. To visit, a knowledgeable guide is required to lead you through the kiosks of used clothes and piles of old electronics to get you to the good stuff! Tucked in beyond all the chaos you will find antique dealers and a whole souk of carpenters that make doors and windows for the city's riads. After a short taxi ride from the Jemma el Fna, it takes just a few minutes walk to find the main street with warehouses stuffed with old lanterns, ceiling panels, towering doors, and art deco furniture. Be sure to keep your bag, phone and wallet safe as this area is rife with pickpockets.

The other absolute must shopping experience in Marrakech is a stop at Mustapha Blaoui's incredible atelier. It is easy enough to walk to it from the Jemma el Fna - but one can also take a taxi to a nearby street and walk just a short block to its famous studded door - number 144! Monsieur Blaoui, elegant as always, is often there chatting with notable French interior designers, and being sure everyone is offered the ubiquitous mint tea. There are many floors of gorgeous, maximalist finds from all over Morocco - from rugs and Tuareg mats to sofas upholstered in sabra or mudcloth fabric, paintings of desert vistas, and hundreds of glittering lanterns - see photo above - this is classic Blaoui.  

Of course one must make stops at the rich historical sites tucked into the folds of the ancient tapestry of the medina while searching out all these shopping highlights.  

Some of our favorites are easy to pop into for a few moments, or a few hours - depending on your mood!

• Le Jardin Secret - shown above with an unusually empty central courtyard (I took this photo during COVID - which was a heartbreaking time made oddly beautiful with the utter lack of any tourists.) This garden with its incredibly innovative, restored waterways dating back hundreds of years, is a quiet oasis on one of our favorite shopping streets, Rue Mouassine.
• Madrasa Ben Youssef is a stunning 16th century Islamic school that has been painstakingly restored. It showcases the artistry of classic Moroccan architecture, from intricate zellige to hand carved plaster, or gebs, and zouaq painted cedar wood. The restoration took years - I am excited to finally get back to see it again on our February trip this year!
• The Marrakech Museum is just next door to Ben Youssef and houses a collection of interesting antiquities. The old palace in which it is housed is the real draw though - Dar Menebhi Palace is an 19th century beauty.
• Dar el Bacha - The Museum of Confluences - is another intensely ornamented palace turned museum that was originally the infamous Thami el Glaoui's residence in the early 1900s. One of the best things about visiting here is the Bacha Coffee outpost with its stunning Wes Anderson style interior. The coffee and pastries are actually worth the line - I swear they taste so delicious because of the surroundings!
• There are many other fabulous places to visit - the Saadian Tombs, the Bahia Palace - basically if you are walking near one of these in your explorations of the medina, stop in and take the time to pause from the chaos of the souks and look back a few centuries.
• Of course any first time visitor to Marrakech also must visit Le Jardin Majorelle with its iconic blue walls and cactus garden in Gueliz. Most notable I think are its beautifully showcased collections of traditional clothing and adornments. The museum surpasses the garden itself in my opinion - it's a must see. The YSL Museum is also directly next door with a separate ticket. Both are easily accessed via taxi from the Jemma el Fna - and there are some great casual lunch places on the chic street adjacent with fun concept stores as well.  

Last but certainly not least, here are some of our favorite places to eat and have a cocktail in the Red City.

• La Maison Arabe - This classic hotel houses the first foreign owned restaurant given license to open by the king back in the 1940s. Book a table by the courtyard pool and dine while listening to oud players - romantic and serene. There is also a lovely little piano bar tucked away down a lantern-lit hall great for post dinner drinks.  
• Les Jardins du Lotus - Down a hidden lane this leafy, vibrant restaurant with its pink tiled bar and nightly DJ and Gnawa performers is a mix of Moroccan and interestingly, Mexican food. Open for brunch as well as late night - it's a fabulous photo op, fun time out.  
• Kabana - This rooftop hot spot is vibrant and full of energy, with great music playing and tables tucked in close. From a spectacular spot for sundowners, to late night cocktails and food to be shared, it's a good gathering place for a festive evening.  
• El Fenn - This hotel sprawls across a dozen riads saturated in delicious zellige tiles, tadelakt walls, and artful furnishings. On the roof a restaurant and bar take advantage of views of the Koutoubia and glorious sunsets. Come for lunch and relax, or for dinner and stay for drinks at the bustling bar. It's delicious and intensely beautiful.  
• L'Mida - Our favorite stop for lunch in the medina. Steps away from the Rahba Kedima this healthy, flavor forward spot wows with every bite. No alcohol, but inventive mocktails and juices are a must.    
• Le Jardin - Drenched in green zellige tile, and hidden down a lane in a great shopping area - (look for the little green signs pointing the way!) - this spot is another lunchtime fave. Order plates to share and look for the resident turtles ambling about the garden while you dine.    
• Terrasse des Epices - Owned by the same group that has Le Jardin, Cafe des Epices, and Nomad, (and the new Petanque which is supposed to be great - I hope to visit for the first time this February trip) - Terrasse des Epices is set in a fondouk in a bustling part of the souks. The shops lining the two floors here have a wide range of fun finds - definitely budget some time to browse. Set on the rooftop, this see and be seen spot is always busy - make a reservation if you want to get a good table out of the sun during their lunch rush. The pastilla here is always great - and we love their snacky shareable plates. But one of the biggest draws here is also the ability to get a glass of vino or a beer within the medina. Most restaurants in the souks are not allowed to serve alcohol.  
• Cafe Arabe - Lovely classic spot with rooftop and interior dining, well situated near Le Jardin Secret museum. If you want a break from Moroccan cuisine there is also Italian cuisine here - and also a full wine list right in the middle of the medina.
• The Moorish - Also on the same street as Le Jardin Secret - this is a cute, casual lunch stop - snacky and quiet.
• Atay Cafe - Pretty rooftop spot with incredible views and consistently good food.
• La Trattoria - This is a grande dame Gueliz spot with hundreds of lanterns sparkling overhead around a reflecting pool. Classic Italian dishes and cocktails with a very romantic setting.  
• L’O a La Bouche - Also in Gueliz with lovely French cuisine and a dark, clubby atmosphere.  
• Dar Yacout - This restaurant is an experience, not just a night out. Set in a riad designed with over-the-top opulence by Bill Willis - your eyes and stomach will be gorged after the multicourse Moroccan meal. Opulent, dramatic, and intensely beautiful.
• Grande Cafe de La Poste - This iconic cafe, built in the 1920s, was the first building erected in the French colonial city of Gueliz. It was originally a post office with cafe attached as the name suggests. Today it is a palm-shaded, casually elegant hideaway for a classic French meal and a glass of wine. Lovley and evocative of time long past.
• J’emma el Fna - Of course one must peruse the traditional food stalls that open nightly in the main square - every kind of Moroccan fare is handmade here in the medina - there are many guides online to which stalls serve what - if street food is your thing - this is essential!
• Of course there are new restaurants opening every season in this city that is constantly reinventing itself - we can't wait to try Sabhi Sabhi this upcoming trip. Do your research and see what fabulous new spots are up and coming!

Above - the spectacular pink bar at Les Jardins du Lotus, the green zellige courtyard of Le Jardin, and constellations of lanterns at La Trattoria. Below, the tiny gift shop at chic Dar el Bacha Coffee inside the Museum of Confluences.

Our love of Marrakech has not abated over the three decades we have been visiting yearly. As the trip comes around each spring, I plan day by day where we will eat, what we will have time to see, and of course what I will bring back in my empty duffel I always pack - knowing full well I will have much more luggage on my way home! Let us know what questions you have about planning your Morocco journeys - and what you'd like us to look for on our next sourcing trip!

Camels are often on visitor's lists as a must see. There are always some tourist trap camels on roadside corners in Marrakech - but if you just have a couple of extra days head over to Essaouira and see them on the beach and spend time in this charming seaside town. Click through here to read more on our fave spots in Essaouira. 

Or if you have time for a full desert experience of sleeping under the stars and trekking on camelback, take the drive to Erg Cheggi. It's a full day journey but the dunes and facilities there are supposed to be the best in Morocco. We still haven't been after all these years - one of these trips we will finally do it!

All photos by me - except those with me in them!  They are by the lovely Beth Whitley and my dearest Douglas Blum.